You have something worth keeping - A guide to getting started
Maybe it's a box of family photographs. A bundle of old letters. A collection of newspapers, certificates, artworks, or old family books. Whatever it is, you've sensed that it deserves better than a shoebox under the bed, and you're right!
But where do you actually begin?
Knowing what to do with your treasured items can feel overwhelming when you first look into it. The terminology can be unfamiliar, the options seem endless, and it's hard to know where to start. This guide will help you begin!
What does "archival quality" actually mean?
These are some of the common phrases you'll see when you start researching preservation materials such as: 'archival quality', 'archival grade', 'museum quality'. But what do they mean?
Archival quality means that a material has been made to last without causing damage to whatever it comes into contact with. Regular paper, plastic, and card contain acids and other compounds that break down over time, and as they degrade, they damage whatever is stored alongside them. You may have seen this already: yellowed newspaper clippings, brittle photographs, documents with brown edges or foxing. That damage can be accelerated by the materials used to store them, as well as by age.
Archival materials are different. They're made to be chemically stable, acid-free, lignin-free, and pH neutral, which means they won't introduce harmful compounds to your items over time.
Terms worth knowing:
Acid-free: The material has a neutral or slightly alkaline pH (7.0 or above), which prevents the acidic deterioration over time.
Lignin-free: Lignin is a natural compound found in wood pulp that breaks down into acids over time. Lignin-free materials have had this removed, making them far more stable.
pH neutral: pH neutral means a pH of 7.0.
Buffered: A material treated with calcium carbonate to create a built-in alkaline reserve. This buffer acts as a long-term safeguard, neutralising acids that may migrate from surrounding materials and helping to protect what's stored within. Read more here.
The main thing to note here is: if the packaging doesn't mention acid-free or archival quality, assume it isn't.
A few things to watch out for:
Most of the damage that happens to treasured items at home isn't caused by neglect, it's caused by perfectly ordinary storage materials that simply weren't made with longevity in mind. Here's what to look out for:
Using regular plastic sleeves or bags: Standard plastic, the kind used in everyday stationery and storage products often contains PVC or other unstable compounds that off-gas over time, damaging whatever is stored inside. Photographs are especially vulnerable here. Always use polyester, polypropylene, or polyethylene enclosures that are specifically made for archival storage.
Using sticky tape to repair documents or photographs: This is one of the most damaging things you can do. Regular adhesive tape, including most "invisible" tapes, yellows, becomes brittle, and can leave permanent staining. If you have items that need repair, use reversible, pH neutral conservation adhesives and tapes designed for the purpose. If in doubt, don't stick anything, consult a conservator first.
Storing items in damp or poorly ventilated spaces: Basements, garages, and roof spaces are the usual storage locations for our household items, but they can be exposed to fluctuating temperatures and humidity which are two big enemies of long-term preservation. Aim for a cool, dry, stable environment like a spare room or interior cupboard.
Storing items in direct or indirect light: UV light fades photographs, inks, and textiles. Keep items away from windows and fluorescent lighting.
Match your material to your project
Different items need different approaches. Here's a simple starting point.
Photographs: Photographs are among the most chemically sensitive items you're likely to be storing. Use polyester or polypropylene enclosures or acid-free paper envelopes for long-term protective storage. Store them in acid-free boxes, away from light and humidity. Avoid writing on the back of photographs with ballpoint pen; use a soft pencil or a pigment-based archival pen if labelling is needed.
Paper: Paper documents benefit from being stored in acid-free folders inside acid-free boxes. Newspapers are particularly acidic and will damage anything stored alongside them, be sure to encapsulate them in polyester film or store them separately. For fragile or damaged documents, avoid handling with bare hands; the oils on skin accelerate deterioration.
Books: Books need support. Don't store them leaning at angles for long periods. For valuable or fragile volumes, acid-free clamshell boxes provide excellent protection.
Artworks and prints: Use acid-free mounts and backing boards/cards, and UV-filtering glazing if framing. For unframed works on paper, interleave with acid-free tissue and store flat in a portfolio or presentation box.
Textiles and garments: Store flat where possible or roll around an acid-free tube for larger pieces. Use acid free tissue to wrap and store in an archival garment box.
When to ask for help
If items are already damaged, if they have mould, tears, water staining, or fading for example, consult a professional conservator before doing anything else. Well-meaning interventions can sometimes make things worse. If you need a professional conservator, we're happy to point you in the right direction. For everything else - choosing the right materials, understanding what you're working with, figuring out where to start - we're always happy to help.
A final thought
Preservation isn't about being precious. It's about making a decision that the things you care about deserve to last.
You don't have to do everything at once. Start with what matters most, use the right materials, store things well, and the rest will follow.
Your story matters. We're here to help you preserve it for the generations to come.